“Asian Review 050” ― Seoul part11
Traditional houses “Hanok” in Bukchon
We are now returning to the inside of Seoul Fortress City Wall. As I had already introduced in the 4th issue, during the Joseon Dynasty, the north side of the Cheonggye River was called Bukchon, and there lived officials and merchants who worked for the court.
They lived in a traditional building called Hanok. It has a structure that allows the smoke from cooking in the kitchen to be exhausted under the floor of the room, and in cold winters the floor is warmed by this “Ondol” system. In summer, the wind passes under the room floor and it cools down the room covered with planks.
Hanok seems to be built according to the principle of Feng-Shui: “mountain on the back and water in the front”. Bukchon is just located on a right place where Baegaksan is in the north which is the back, a bit hilly, observing the Cheonggye River in the south on the front. A concept like the “Road of Wind” already seemed to be considered. There might be relatively large Hanoks during the Joseon Dynasty, but because of the various causes such as being divided to solve the housing trouble in modern times, most of the Hanoks still remaining are relatively small ones. At the Bukchon Cultural Center, artifacts of the modern history used by the residents are collected and displayed in the actual Hanok residence.
In the 1990s, restrictions on buildings around Gyeongbokgung Palace on the west side of the Bukchon area were eased because of the increasing population, and it became possible to build up to five floors, so many Hanoks disappeared. It is said that the main body, “The Jungno-Bukchon Community Association” was launched, and discussions involving experts and administration were developed. After that, the former mayor of Lee Myung-bak announced the “Bukchon Long-term Development Policy” to make Bukchon a historical and cultural belt in 2006 as a key business. In 2011, the Michelin Guide recognized it as a “three star” tourist destination.
I heard that they can offer Hanok stay, which might be the Korean version of “Minpaku” (Vacation Rental). How about you? Will you like to experience Ondol’s far infrared rays?
