“Asian Review 005” Shanghai part5
A fashionable world spreading over the former French concession In the existing city area, west of Huangpu River in Shanghai (Puxi), the former “French Concession” spreads from the Bund, mainly to the west along Huaihai Road.
The road network of Shanghai is quite different from that of Beijing. Although there are almost straight streets forming a grid, many roads run diagonally, and the roads which ranks are not so high usually have less traffic and are comfortable for walks.
Hengshan Road and Xinhua Road, which are typical streets of the former “French Concession” area are ranked as secondary trunk roads. These are impressive avenues with lined Chinese parasol trees. These trees form a tunnel of sunlight. Along these roads, you can find some hotels and restaurants which used to be apartments for French expats. When I stroll through the streets of Dongping Road, Taojiang Road and etc. which are side streets of Hengshan Road, time passes by slowly.
“Xintiandi (New World)” is a commercial area which is a part of the former French Concession area. It is formed by conservation and renovation of private town houses in conventional Shanghai style called “Shikumen architecture (Temple gate architecture)”. This unique and traditional Shanghai eclectic architecture style was born in the 1860’s, and the exterior wall is made from piled red and black bricks. The entrance has a stone frame gate, and some of them have gracefully decorated decorations reminiscent of the Italian classicism architecture.
In the past, it was said that 60% of Shanghai’s residence were built by this stone gate construction, but the percentage gradually declined. Some example buildings with this style are preserved and are used as commercial buildings with an retro atmosphere.
“Tianzifang” is located one kilometer southwest of Xintiandi, and is a unique commercial area inside a residential district along Taikang Road. Tianzifang is a home to various restaurants of international cuisines, open cafes, ateliers, art shops and accessory shops. They are aligned along narrow alleys which are 2 to 4 meters in width like a labyrinth.
In 1999, a famous painter and sculptor called Chen Yifei had started his creative activity in his own atelier inside his house facing the alley which was the beginning. Artists inspired by Chen moved into this area and made ateliers one after another, and restaurants and bars spontaneously increased targeting these people.
In some blocks, next to the commercial space, the original inhabitants from the days are still living their lives. Simultaneously the commercial area are continuously growing based on the approval of use by the municipal authority. The authority evaluates “Tianzifang” as an element to vitalize the city. Originally there was a small food market facing the Taikang Road, and behind it were three alleys heading towards the residential zone in a right angles from the Taikang Road. These three alleys gradually connected forming a labyrinth, which enabled people to ramble. There is a path where you cannot get to unless you go through a miscellaneous shop, and it feels as if there is a new shop at every visit.
In addition, many fashionable areas are spreading such as the Sinan Mansion and the Donghu road area. In these areas you can find some attractive hidden restaurants, and finding them is truly one of the pleasures of visiting Shanghai.
